John’s
When I think of Chinese restaurants, one place shines brighter in my memory than any other. My gung-gung’s favorite restaurant was called Harbor Palace, a Cantonese seafood restaurant in a strip mall in Lomita. He and my popo ate there almost exclusively ever since they moved to Southern California. Until I was a teenager, I only knew the restaurant as “John’s,” because the owner’s English name was John. … More John’s
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